Dear Mum. Weather Is Lovely. Wish You Were Here.
Luxury isn’t something my mum was accustomed to. Holidays for her as she grew up in Ireland were non-existent.
Her early adult life in England was spent looking after children then, from the age of 29 to 65, she spent most of her days working long, long hours for the NHS, for over three decades in a mental hospital in Basingstoke.
She loved the idea of travelling but - apart from two weeks every summer (to visit family across the Irish Sea) - did very little of it.
When I was 17, we spent a week in Malta. Just me and her. She was only 39 and, being pretty foxy-looking got chatted up constantly by amorous Maltese men.
When I’d been working as a journalist for a couple of years, I saved up some money to take her to Paris. We stayed in a cheap hotel and visited all the sights. It wasn’t especially fancy but she thought just being in the city was terribly glamorous. She really threw herself into it and could speak pigeon French by the time we got home. I told her that one day we’d go somewhere a bit more ‘five star’.
She would have loved Cyprus with its fantastic weather (she was a bit of a sun worshipper and I’d often find her on a hot summer’s afternoon, when I got in from school, sitting on a chair in the garden, just by the back door, her freckled face tilted sunwards, soaking up the rays), warm glittering sea and amazing history - and she’d have definitely loved the luxurious family-run Asimina Suites hotel in Paphos: a short taxi ride from the airport, so no precious sunbathing time lost!
The staff at the tranquil, relaxing (no under-16s: might explain it!) Asimina are friendly, attentive and accommodating but never overbearing and go out of their way to make their guests as comfortable as possible. Within minutes of arriving, after a warm welcome and a chilled glass of champagne accompanied by a few dainty canapés (which every guest receives, not just VIPs like me!), I felt instantly spoilt. My mum wasn’t a big drinker - it’d go straight to her head and make her cheeks instantly pink - but she’d definitely down a flute or two of champers given the chance!
I could imagine her face had we holidayed here together and saw one of the luxury suites for the first time. We could have chosen a one bed or two bed, with or without private pool. I could almost hear her saying “I could happily live here!” With a spacious living room, well-equipped kitchen area, super comfy king size beds and a bathroom fit for a movie star, she’d have wandered from room to room, wide-eyed and delighted.
The balcony view of the two adjoining turquoise pools with a backdrop of a private sandy beach (the largest in Paphos) would have had her jaw hitting the floor. She’d have donned her swimsuit and headed for the sun loungers in a matter of minutes and swimming in the sparkly waters of the Aegean Sea shortly after that!
The beautiful island of Cyprus was one of many places on her bucket list but sadly she never made it. She had so many plans but her life was sadly cut short in 2009 with many destinations left unvisited. I vowed back then that I wouldn’t do the same - leave things too late - and decided to grab with both hands every travel opportunity that came my way. I believed that if I carried her memory with me, in my heart and mind, she could perhaps somehow share my adventures.
She’d have been proud of me as I set off on my first lone journey at the age of 50. Unlike me, she’d have had no fear of travelling alone. The few solo trips she made included the former Yugoslavia, Spain and, her favourite place, the Greek island of Kefalonia.
Greek food was her favourite so she’d have definitely enjoyed the delicious meals on the Cypriot menus - the fresh Greek salads, the mouth-watering lemon chicken, the scrumptious tenderloin steaks and the wide range of tasty desserts, the chocolate lava cake in particular. The menu at the hotel’s beachside restaurant Kymata (the most intimate of the hotel’s four restaurants) was just perfect - all my favourite dishes in one place and the best pepper steak I’ve ever had!
All kinds of fun activities can be organised at the hotel. I opted for the complimentary gin-tasting session, which was more than eye-opening as I found a gin I actually liked! With ginger ale the Opihr brand felt positively medicinal (as did some of the wines I tried at a wine-tasting experience at Ktima Gerolemo winery the following day (yes, I know… I’ll detox next week!), where I drank red, rosé and ‘firewater’ wines and even found a white wine I enjoyed- a rare occurrence!)
My mum was also a big fan of Turkish delight (it’s one of those ‘Marmite’ things - you either love it or hate it: I’m not keen) so she would have been intrigued to see it being made - in an assortment of unexpected flavours (ouzo and bergamot were especially unusual!) in the little family shop - Arsinoe Yeroskipos - I visited in Geroskipou.
She had a curious mind and would have been absolutely enthralled by Cypriot history and all the mythology. She was an artist in her spare time and, because of that, I’m sure she’d have found the ancient mosaics at the ancient site of Curium along with the ruins of the Sanctuary of Apollon Ylatis quite inspirational. Seeing Aphrodite’s Rock at Petra tou Romiou, where the mythical goddess was born from the foam of the sea, would have set her imagination whirring too!
She’d have found the 9th century Byzantine church - Church of Agia Paraskevi – Geroskipou - interesting too. Bring a bit of a feminist though (she followed activist and author Germaine Greer avidly and even had her autograph!), she wouldn’t have approved of the sexist rule that women and girls are still forbidden to enter the inner sanctum of the church and are only allowed to sit at the back of the church! That’s a men only zone!
Being used to early rises most of her life, my mum, opposite to me in so many ways, wasn’t one for staying up past midnight but she’d have had a fun (not too late) night out in vibrant Paphos Town.
Had I taken her to the island, I’d have insisted on heading to Omodos, the cutest town in Cyprus (in my opinion anyway), with its cobbled streets, quirky restaurants and shops selling all manner of traditional fayre - food, clothing, jewellery, pottery and artwork. I’d have taken her to lunch at Stou Kir-Yianni restaurant which, besides Kmitra (at Asima Suites) HAS to be one of the best restaurants in Cyprus. We’d have chicken with Comanderie sauce, truffle pasta, grilled halloumi and lashings of tomato and onion salad - and perhaps a glass or two of Cypriot wine to wash it all down!
It’s a shame my lovely mum left this world before she’d had a chance to properly explore it but I’m happy that I’m lucky enough to be able to continue her journeying on her behalf. She’s on a very different journey now but I hope she enjoyed our trip to Cyprus from afar and is pleased that we made it there even though it may not have been in the most traditional of ways.
[Box]
Go where Jacqui went!
The hotel!
Beachfront 5 star hotel in Paphos, Cyprus || Asimina Suites Hotel
(Book before 28.02.2025 and save 20%!)
The church!
https://www.visitpafos.org.cy/points-of-interest/church-of-agia-paraskevi-geroskipou/
The restaurant!
The winery!
The Turkish delight shop!
https://tastecyprus.com.cy/en/arsinoeyeroskipos/
The Sanctuary Of Apollo!
Archaelogical site and Roman Amphitheater Kourion
https://www.visitcyprus.com/discover-cyprus/rural/sites-monuments/theatre-of-kourion-2/
Other places to visit:
Lots to do in Paphos including the UNESCO World Heritage Sites https://www.visitpafos.org.cy/a-proud-heritage/archaeological-sites/
Great shopping and restaurants in Paphos Old Town, which became European Capital of Culture in 2017 and European Capital of Smart Tourism in 2023 https://www.visitpafos.org.cy/smart-city-2023/#:~:text=About%20the%20Destination,diverse%20and%20historically%20rich%20regions.
Published today in Silver Magazine: https://silvermagazine.co.uk/cyprus-travel-wish-with-my-mum
You've turned up here 👍 do your worst, as I do
Dear Jacqui, your article brought as many tears to my eyes as it did make me smile, thankyou for both. I too, always said to Mum who was murdered last year in a hospice, that we`ll go to Egypt and see the pyramids, ride on a camel, buy something we don`t need from a suspicious looking gallivant selling rubbish and watch crocodiles on the Nile. We never did as Mum became ill too soon, the UK GOV. protocolls did the rest. Bless you, and our Mums. Gail